A world pandemic got here and receded, and as soon as the mud settled it was clear that we didn’t want to reside in sweatpants for the remainder of our lives. As a matter of reality, it’s an thrilling time to take an curiosity within the rarefied world of bespoke, {custom} and made-to-measure clothes in New York, as the town is awash with native and worldwide artisans, heritage makers working on the prime of their craft and younger designers placing their very own stamp on a centuries-old artwork.
However first, a observe on terminology, as not all personalised tailoring is made on the similar stage. On the entry level is made-to-measure, which is commonly made with the identical high quality and on the similar amenities as ready-made clothes however differs in that its pre-set “block” or sample has been altered to account for a shopper’s measurements and sure styling preferences, together with their selection of cloth. Made-to-measure clothes arrives in near-final type save for the position of the sleeve buttons however could be moreover altered to higher match the shopper.
Bespoke, additionally known as “bench made,” represents the opposite facet of the spectrum. Somewhat than adjusting a manufacturing unit’s pre-existing templates, a tailor will create a wholly new sample for the shopper. This enables for a a lot fuller vary of customizations and match changes over a larger variety of fittings, which usually begins with a short lived “basted” becoming held collectively by string.
That, nevertheless, is simply essentially the most broadly accepted definition—different concerns, resembling whether or not the sample is drawn on paper or the garment options further ranges of handmaking will differ by maker. As this means, many corporations fall someplace between these two poles and outline themselves underneath the big-tent classification of “{custom},” which could be understood as a mix of the 2.
Now, whether or not your subsequent {custom} fee shall be a three-piece swimsuit or a polo shirt, seek the advice of the record of makers beneath.
Alexander Black
Alexander Black
Working exterior of an area in Crown Heights, Alexander Black presents potential purchasers with three ranges of make. Its {custom} fits are made abroad using a digital buyer sample based mostly on 25 particular person measurements. The semi-bespoke providing, in the meantime, depends on a hand-struck paper sample and contains extra handwork at very important factors together with the shoulder and sleeves. Lastly, its full bespoke make is produced start-to-finish by a single tailor in New York Metropolis and requires greater than 70 hours of labor.
Tackle: 865 Jap Parkway, Brooklyn, NY 11213
Cellphone: +1 347-600-8217
Web site: http://alexanderblacknyc.com/
Angel Ramos New York
The Angel Ramos home model is infused with the sartorial signifiers of the Jazz Age and the gregarious private model of its titular founder and artistic director. Somewhat than becoming purchasers by way of a set block sample, the made-to-measure program splits the distinction with bespoke by making a {custom} sample for every shopper based mostly on 30 physique measurements. As soon as the material is minimize, the garment is then made in keeping with one of many Thirties-inspired home kinds. The corporate additionally presents its soft-shouldered jackets, high-waisted trousers, knit polos and four-pocket “cigar shirts” made-to-order.
Tackle: 13 Christopher Avenue, New York, NY 10014
Web site: https://angelny.com/
Alan Flusser Customized
Whereas possession of the enterprise handed from its titular founder to long-serving affiliate Jonathan Sigmon in 2020, the home model developed by Flusser over the course of 4 many years stays. At this time, purchasers can procure its “up to date drape” silhouette—marked by a tender, pure shoulder, a fuller chest and a trim waist—by way of each {custom} and made-to-measure. Its {custom} providing is essentially handmade in New York Metropolis, whereas made-to-measure clothes are completed in its New York Metropolis workshop following two fittings. Whereas it might at all times be most readily related to Wall Avenue antagonist Gordon Gekko—who Flusser famously outfitted—the enterprise additionally presents full bespoke and made-to-measure for ladies.
Tackle: 3 East forty eighth Avenue, Flooring 3, New York, NY 10017
Cellphone: +1 212-888-4500
Web site: https://alanflusser.com
The Armoury
Worldwide retailer The Armoury maintains two New York places in Tribeca and the Higher East Facet. Each outlets supply a wide selection of bespoke, made-to-measure and made-to-order. Bespoke choices come from third-party artisans together with Liverano & Liverano, Tailor Caid and Pommella Napoli, who usually go to Armoury places throughout trunk exhibits that permit new purchasers to position orders. Made-to-measure and made-to-order are each carried out by way of the Armoury’s intensive “100 Collection” of fits and jackets which might be designed in-house and manufactured by Japan’s Ring Jacket; made-to-measure tailoring from Neapolitan maker Orazio Luciano can also be accessible.
Tackle: 168 Duane Avenue, New York, NY 10013; 13 East 69th St, New York, NY 10021
Cellphone: +1 646-613-7613
Web site: https://thearmoury.com
Cad & The Dandy
Solely in its second decade of enterprise, bespoke maker Cad & The Dandy is a Savile Row import whose relative youthfulness is mirrored in a deference to shopper preferences and a rakish “penthouse” showroom perched atop a tailor-filled tower on West 57th avenue. Compared to its London brethren, jackets are typified by a softer shoulder and extra structured physique and could be accomplished in a a lot shorter timeframe. A toile becoming usually arrives three weeks after an order is positioned, and clothes could be completed in 5.
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Tackle: 130 W 57th Avenue, 11B, New York, NY 10019
Cellphone: +1 917-400-4804
Web site: https://www.cadandthedandy.com
F.E. Castleberry
From the second one steps into Frederick Egan Castleberry’s pink-walled, art-filled atelier on Christopher Avenue, it’s obvious that the designer has created a world of his personal—and his made-to-measure clothes could be very a lot an extension of that Wes Anderson-influenced imaginative and prescient. An F.E. Castleberry jacket is marked by tender, pure shoulders, 3⅝” notched lapels and a trio of broadly spaced surgeon’s cuffs; in the meantime, trousers are minimize on the relaxed facet with 2½” turn-ups and jetted off-seam pockets. “Style” is typically a unclean phrase on the earth of {custom} tailoring, however at F.E. Castleberry, you’re very a lot within the designer’s fingers.
Tackle: 14 Christopher Avenue, No.1, third flooring, New York, NY 10014
Web site: https://fecastleberry.com
Genuardi Grasp Tailor
Genuardi Grasp Tailor
The eponymous Joseph Genuardi left a profession in industrial design to check underneath considered one of Philadelphia’s final remaining bespoke tailors, finally clinching the place of head tailor at Martin Greenfield. Genuardi struck out on his personal in 2016 and now works out of a transformed industrial constructing in Hoboken, the place he and his group create bespoke clothes—from fits to overcoats to informal zipped vests—completely on-site. That soup-to-nuts focus extends to the tender but structured canvassing Genuardi makes use of, which is made in-house.
Tackle: 300 Observer Freeway 4th Flooring Hoboken, NJ 07030
Cellphone: +1 201-419-5975
Web site: http://www.genuarditailor.com/
Huntsman
Huntsman stands out as the primary Savile Row bespoke tailor to ascertain a everlasting presence throughout the pond, having opened its small showroom on West 57th avenue in 2016. Its high-ceilinged, library-like area hosts an in-house cutter to take shopper measurements and conduct fittings. As soon as an order is positioned, the clothes are made in London in keeping with Huntsman’s equestrian-inspired home model marked by robust shoulders, an outlined waist, and a single button stance. At Hunstman, two ranges of bespoke are supplied: the premium “Bespoke 1849”, which presents entry to extra unique cloths and materials from the Huntsman archives, and the usual bespoke that may be accomplished in a shorter timeline.
Tackle: 130 W 57th Avenue, ninth Flooring, New York, NY 10019
Cellphone: +1 646-590-2595
Web site: https://www.huntsmansavilerow.com
J. Mueser
J. Mueser merges a downtown sensibility with Neapolitan tailoring at its second-floor showroom within the West Village, which is complemented by a ready-to-wear haberdashery throughout the road. Three various ranges of make are supplied. The made-to-order Campania is an unstructured, half-canvassed mannequin made by machine in Naples with a 3/2 roll, patch pockets, and a barchetta chest pocket. Representing the {custom} facet of the enterprise is the Waverly, which is made in Naples from a hand-drafted sample and marked by a frivolously constructed shoulder. The Mayfair, its bespoke providing, is made in New York and extra constructed up by way of a number of layers of canvas and a stronger shoulder.
Tackle: 19 Christopher Avenue Retailer B, New York, NY 10014
Cellphone: +1 347-982-4382
Web site: https://jmueser.com
Leonard Logsdail
London-born, Savile Row-trained Leonard Logsdail brings over 50 years of tailoring expertise to his midtown atelier, which he opened in 1991. Whereas the enterprise has earned consideration for outfitting movies like The Wolf of Wall Avenue and American Gangster, Logsdail practices bespoke at a remarkably intimate and conventional stage. He personally takes every shopper’s measurements, drafts their paper sample and cuts their material himself. Afterward, the clothes are made domestically by a single jacket maker, trouser maker and buttonhole-finisher—every is touched by simply 4 people. Along with bespoke, Logsdail additionally maintains a made-to-measure providing that’s produced in Canada.
Tackle: 9 East 53rd Avenue, Flooring 4, New York, NY 10022
Cellphone: +1 212-752-5030
Web site: https://www.leonardlogsdail.com
Manolo Costa
Earlier than going solo, Manolo Costa helped launch Paul Stuart’s Phineas Cole line and managed the Purple Label division on the Polo mansion. That inclination for old-world glamour remains to be expressed at his Higher East Facet atelier, which is embellished with artwork and antiques collected by Costa on his travels—and can be found for purchasers to buy. His bespoke clothes take after American tailoring from the 1920sand ‘30s, with tender, pure shoulders and structured our bodies. The clothes is made domestically, and usually accomplished after eight to 10 weeks with three to 4 fittings.
Tackle: 130 ¼ East sixty fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10065
Cellphone: +1 212-889-2625
Web site: https://manolocosta.com
Martin Greenfield Clothiers
Brooklyn’s Martin Greenfield Clothiers carries a novel heritage. Its titular founder was orphaned within the Holocaust earlier than emigrating to the USA and discovering work as a flooring boy on the manufacturing unit he got here to buy. As a grasp tailor, Greenfield went on to make fits for U.S. presidents and productions together with Boardwalk Empire and The Nice Gatsby, and right now the manufacturing unit bearing his identify is the final union store remaining within the New York space. Purchasers who want to have interaction its {custom} providers can go to the manufacturing unit’s third flooring, the place they’ll be fitted for a private sample that shall be minimize on the ground immediately above them earlier than getting used to make their clothes on-site.
Tackle: 239 Varet Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11206
Cellphone: +1 718-497-5480
Web site: https://greenfieldclothiers.com
New & Lingwood
New & Lingwood is headquartered on Jermyn avenue in London however maintains an Higher East Facet retailer with made-to-measure supplied on the second flooring. Along with fits and shirting, New & Lingwood additionally permits purchasers to order custom-made dressing robes in nice materials together with silk and cashmere that shall be made immediately underneath its Jermyn avenue store.
Tackle: 970 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY 10021
Cellphone: +1 212-585-1865
Web site: https://www.newandlingwood.com
Paolo Martorano Bespoke
Weston Wells
Paolo Martorano Bespoke was established in 2017 when its founder was simply 25 years outdated, however its high quality has attracted a few of menswear’s most discerning vets. Martorano practices the bespoke artwork at its most conventional with {custom} paper patterns and basted fittings for every garment. Jackets are hand-sewn with hand-padded collars, chests and lapels, and trousers are hand-basted and completed by six hours of guide urgent. The home silhouette embraces basic proportions and could be recognized by a pure, frivolously padded shoulder with mild roping on the sleevehead. Along with conventional tailoring and eveningwear, Martorano additionally presents bespoke pajamas, gilets, safari jackets and different much less formal fare.
Tackle: 130 West 57th Avenue, 2A, New York, NY 10019
Cellphone: +1 212 363 0135
Web site: https://www.paolostyle.com
P. Johnson
Aussie import P. Johnson hosts an ethereal, third-floor showroom in SoHo the place purchasers are measured to create a person collection of patterns. Afterward, these could also be used to make a wide selection of formal or informal made-to-measure clothes, starting from fits to shirt jackets to polos. The very best stage choices are produced by P. Johnson’s Tuscan manufacturing unit Sartoria Carrara and made predominantly by hand. The model additionally companions with a Shanghai manufacturing unit that produces its “Pronto” line made at a cheaper price level and with a shorter turnaround time, in addition to its P. Johnson Femme line of made-to-measure clothes for ladies.
Tackle: 400 Broadway, third Flooring, New York, NY 10012
Cellphone: +1 917-533-5879
Web site: https://pjt.com
Sartoria Gallo
Sartoria Gallo
After finding out underneath the Roman tailor Luigi Gallo, San Francisco native Eric Jensen established a New York outpost of the Gallo household enterprise in March 2021. The result’s cross-continental bespoke: paper patterns are made by Jensen in his Carnegie Hill showroom whereas the primary fittings are produced in both New York or Rome. All clothes are accomplished in Rome and bear the hallmarks of the Gallo model: an unpadded shoulder, gentle horsehair canvas and neat ending that’s extra boardroom-friendly than the comparable Neapolitan make.
Tackle: 1298 Madison Ave New York, NY 10128
Cellphone: +1 619-988-6242
Web site: https://www.sartoriagallo.com/en/home-en/
Thom Sweeney
Thom Sweeney’s up to date method to British tailoring is represented in Manhattan by a SoHo retailer that shares its ready-to-wear line, presents made-to-measure and hosts bespoke trunk exhibits with its London cutters 4 occasions a yr. The model’s made-to-measure providing is out there in three fashions: a contemporary British development with a light-weight chest canvas, frivolously padded shoulders and a gently roped sleevehead; a softly structured jacket with an Italian-style shoulder development; and a very unstructured and unlined make—all of that are made in Italy. Its bespoke is tailor-made in London following a shopper’s particular person paper sample and minimize with an up to date English silhouette that leans trimmer with light-weight chest canvassing and subtler shoulder pads.
Tackle: 362 W Broadway, New York, NY 10013
Cellphone: +1 646-851-0586
Web site: https://thomsweeney.com
Tiefenbrun
Tiefenbrun
Simply as his nom de Instagram would recommend, Yosel Tiefenbrun—aka @rabbitailor—is an ordained rabbi. However he’s additionally a classically educated bespoke tailor, having studied on the Savile Row Academy earlier than apprenticing for Maurice Sedwell. His East Williamsburg showroom could also be a good distance from the Row, however the English affect could be felt in a home model marked by roped shoulders, excessive armholes and a suppressed waist.
Tackle: 188 Scott Avenue Brooklyn, NY 11237
Cellphone: +1 718-650-6120
Web site: https://www.tiefenbrunnyc.com/
Turnbull & Asser
These wishing to interact the Royal Warrant-holding shirtmaker’s {custom} providers in Manhattan will discover the bespoke division on the third flooring of its Midtown flagship. Inside, purchasers could have the chance to pick from over 1,000 materials, 25 choices for collars and cuffs and 20 styles of monogram, and could have 18 physique measurements taken to develop their {custom} paper sample.
Tackle: 50 East 57th Avenue, New York, NY 10022
Cellphone: +1 212-752-5700
Web site: https://turnbullandasser.com
